Rounding Kauai's northeast corner near Anahola, then heading west on the island's Highway 56, I felt the magic increase. I cruised the rental through several small, photogenic towns like Hanalei (it's considered very uncool to speed on Kauai, so easy on the accelerator), and followed the scenic, twisting road until it ended at the parking lot at Haena State Park.

I enjoyed the sun for awhile at Haena's postcard-perfect Ke'e Beach, then strapped on my heavy-duty Teva's and headed for the trail. An informat! ion board at the trailhead explains that this rugged area on Kauai's northwest shore has a long and colorful history.

By 1600, native Hawaiians had around 200 acres of land under cultivation in the difficult terrain here, growing crops such as taro using an intricate system of terraces and natural irrigation. Three hundred years later, families found it difficult to make a living in the isolated area, and left for nearby towns. The trail now in use was built in the late 1800's.

Today, the Kalalau Trail is an 11-mile trek that can be done ! in several parts, providing the only land access to this primal coast that crosses five valleys, two beaches and eons of natural history. No permits are required if you're just a daytripper going the first two miles to Hanakapi'ai Valley.

If you plan on going further to Hanakoa Valley, which is four miles along the route, or the entire 11 miles to Kalalau Beach, a permit is required. Campers, who are limited to five days, will also need permits, which are available at no cost from the State Parks office in the main town of Lihue.

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