
Yogi Times > May 2003
INDIA: A Traveler's Notebook
by
Eric Hiss
India.
A place to stir the soul, heighten the senses and
stimulate the intellect. All of us who practice yoga
have experienced it on some level. For many, the physical
practice of Hatha Yoga, one of the eight limbs of
the tradition, puts us in contact through the use
of Sanskrit, the language of ancient India, and through
other aspects of the 6,000-year old practice deeply
rooted in this timeless place.
You may have considered a journey here,
to go to the source if you will. A vast country encompassing
various cultures, tribes, castes and religions (over
12 at last count), India could never be fully explored
in a lifetime, let alone one trip, so don't try and
overachieve. Just breathe in deeply and follow your
instinct. Some places will speak to you. To get you
started however, we've listed a few suggested destinations
both well-traveled and off-the-beaten path.
They represent different aspects of the subcontinent
-- evocative architecture, spiritual centers, untamed
nature, and in some cases a combination of several
of these attributes. The itinerary also focuses on
one region, North Central India, a good strategy to
use when traveling across a country of some three
million square kilometers.
The Hindu holy city of Varanasi sits at the very center
of India's sacred geography, like the hub of a wheel
whose spokes extend north to the Himalayas, east to
Puri, south to Kanyakumari and Dwarka to the west.
Continuously inhabited since the 6th Century BC, this
ancient city is defined by its wealth of temples and
riparian lifeblood, the Ganges. Here, at the river's
edge, ghats or landings serve as ritual bathing spots
for Hindus of all castes. At daybreak, these ghats
are lyrical spots to watch life unfold as it has for
centuries. The city itself is a warren of serpentine
lanes filled with bicycles, scooters, school kids,
cows (and cow dung of course) and touts hustling every
trinket and tour imaginable. Dive in and explore!
The many notable temples and sacred spots also merit
a visit, such as Adi Vishweshwara, Vishwanatha or
Golden Temple and Manikrnika Kund. Special tours (see
below) can be arranged to help you navigate both the
mind-boggling alleys and strict etiquette necessary
to visit these powerful places.
An hour plane flight from Varanasi (the best way,
as there are no direct rail or bus lines here) lie
the almost mythical temple complexes of Khajuraho.
Graceful spires that are staggered up
to ten stories high, which some say are meant to echo
the Himalayas, abode of the Gods, these are temples
of incredible symmetry and unrepentant sensuality.
Built by the Chandela dynasty a thousand years ago,
the temples, especially on the north and south-facing
walls, feature gracefully carved figures of gods and
goddesses and everyday men and women twining in sometimes
seemingly impossible erotic embraces. The Western
Group of Temples, including Lakshmana and Kandariya
Mahadeva (once a Shiva temple) are the most impressive,
standing like giant chess pieces on a flat, verdant
plain. Scenes of daily life, battles, lovers, animals
and ornately carved arches and garlands rendered in
sandstone on these and other temples scattered throughout
the area provide an eternally evocative view into
India's rich and complex spiritual and dynastic history.
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You can always fly solo, but even experienced
travelers find India a challenging trip. Following
are two excellent resources for both general
and more spiritually oriented itineraries
while there.
Led by a youthful, English-speaking European
fluent in Sanskrit, Hindi and temple etiquette,
Shivananda, whose parents are both Sanskrit
scholars, leads immersive tours through Varanasi's
twisting alleys to some of its most important
temples and sacred sites.
Phone: 011-91-542-227-5683
Email: rucikara@interia.pl
A dependable resource for assistance in travel
throughout India. Mercury can arrange all
manner of transportation, including, plane,
bus and train tickets as well as secure private
drivers to more remote areas. Representatives
and guides, whether needed to traverse a wildlife
preserve or the Agra train station, are prompt
and courteous.
Contact: Mr. Chanden Sen
509 Madison Ave.
Suite 1906
New York, NY 10022
Phone: 212-223-9200
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Appearing almost as a mirage through the mists of
time, the slowly decaying palaces and temples of Orccha
still speak fluently of past glories. Located in Madhya
Pradesh (and an accessible five-hour drive from Khajuraho)
Orchha (which means "hidden place") was once the home
of wealthy Hindu princes loyal to powerful Moghul
invaders. Here, courtly decadence was refined to a
high art, with a favorite courtesan's private villa
still resplendent centuries after lavish performances
and royal trysts with the raja have been forgotten.
Though almost 500 years old, the architecture
remains striking -- a textbook example of the fusion
of Islamic and Hindu design resulting from the arrival
of the Moghuls. One of the palaces has been converted
to a hotel, while the village at the approach before
the River Betwa has interesting stalls, good restaurants
and several guesthouses and hotels.
Don't visit India without taking time out to breath
in the fresh air and unspoiled vistas of a national
park or preserve. One of India's largest, Panna, can
be visited as a day-trip from Khajaraho. Set along
the scenic River Ken, the park is home to several
species of antelope and deer, including elk-sized
sambar as well as both species of Indian crocodiles.
The most prized sighting here, however, are tigers,
which still roam this former royal hunting preserve.
Haze. Fumes. Frenzy. Traffic. And then there is the
Taj Mahal. Splendid beyond all vapid adjectives, it
simply must be seen. Commissioned by the Moghul sultan
Shah Jahan, 20,000 workers toiled for over 20 years
four centuries ago to build this magnificent testament
to love, faith and power. Beyond the sublime symmetry
and impressive scale, intricate carvings and inlaid
precious stones which detail the structure add yet
another layer of astonishing accomplishment to a true
wonder of the world.
Heading westward along the Yamuna river,
Agra Fort is another excellent reason to visit. A
symbol of the Moghul's power over the region, its
red sandstone battlements, interior courtyards and
royal pavilions summon the ghosts of times past. Those
looking to take a piece of India home with them won't
be disappointed either. Look for inlaid marble tables,
vases, beautiful Taj-inspired rugs and leather goods.
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