Sushi Sushi
By now, every savvy denizen of LA speaks sushi to some degree. We have our fave place to take out-of-town guests, clients, dates -- whoever needs to be impressed by the tastes and textures of a sublime sushi experience. The usual names get trotted out: R-23, Sushi Roku, Matsuhisa -- all fine establishments that have earned their sushi stature. But one name is missing on that roster that absolutely deserves mention in the same breath…Sushi Sushi. Yes, it's worth repeating when it's this good. Especially since Sushi Sushi serves nothing else -- no tempura, themed rolls (the very popular California roll excepted) -- not so much as a stray bowl of rice. Moreover, Sushi Sushi is authentic right down to its penchant for traditional Japanese modesty, exhibited by the nondescript, narrow frontage on S. Beverly Drive and the quiet demeanor of owner and head sushi chef, Shigei-san.

Don't expect rousing banzai greetings when you enter here. What you can anticipate, however, is the deft mastery of Shigei and his executive chef, Gen, a rising star who holds down his end of the sushi bar with a smile and the skillful hands of a brain surgeon.
Inside the intimate establishment, the décor is tastefully Zen, spare almost, as if all the energy here is devoted to masterful presentations of food. Melon green walls and some bamboo accents are all that embellish the eight-year-old eatery. But as you make your way to the sushi bar, your eyes can focus on nothing else but fresh fish being transformed into masterworks.

An alphabet soup of industry types (ICM, CAA, et al.) swarms here for lunch, so if you're planning on a mid-day visit, be sure to call ahead and make reservations. In the evening, a more eclectic crowd of in-the-know visitors, Japanese businessmen and local sushi aficionados hold down the tables.

Shop talk of three picture deals and A-list signings notwithstanding, the real stars here (besides Shigei and Gen) have names like Aburi-toro and Kampachi. Translated, they are seared blue fin tuna and Japanese yellowtail, just a few of the delicacies from the deep that Shigei-san buys fresh every morning from the fish market. Depending on the day and season, he selects choices from around the world for his Omakase ("open choice") course, which can include fresh albacore, mirugai or giant clam, Japanese red snapper and halibut.

The traditional way to open such a meal here would be with a premium cold sake, like Ken dai ginjo, an excellent complement to more subtle fish such as halibut.

A typical Omakase course would then begin with Aburi-Toro, cut from the richest part of bluefin tuna, then seared to hold and refine the flavor. Subsequent selections building on nuanced flavors would then progress to Zuke, or bluefin tuna marinated with soy sauce; Kampachi, which is premium Japanese yellowtail; seared albacore, then Kohada, or Japanese herring, which Gen refers to as an "old style" sushi with stronger flavor.

Known to bring audible gasps of gastronomical delight, precisely wrapped hand rolls are also part of the mix, including the generous Toro-Taku roll of chopped toro with pickled radish. Back to tradition, finish the meal with a bowl of hot green tea. Upon leaving, there will be no effusive shouts or jokes. As Shigei-san is the first to tell you, he's no comedian -- but he and Gen are certainly artists when it comes to sushi.

Sushi Sushi, 326 1/2 S. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, CA 90212 310-277-1165

Giorgio Baldi
As anyone who has tried to follow the VIP vortex knows, its center of gravity is a constantly shifting thing. More fickle than the California electorate, it moves with a mind of its own. One minute it's Fridays at AOC, and the next…Giorgio Baldi. Tucked into a nondescript building close to PCH in Santa Monica, the discreet restaurant isn't showing any signs of letting up after 13 years, with Friday nights becoming particularly scene-worthy.
In fact, that night now seems to belong to Giorgio's, with the likes of Steven Spielberg, Kate Capshaw, Michelle Pfieffer and John Cusack recent patrons.
What's the draw? Well, obviously the "juice" in the room for starters. Then there is the ebullient, attentive staff of real Italian waiters (youthful Marco was our server and never missed a beat) and of course, the menu. While some dishes on the regular menu are uneventful, such as the breaded veal cutlet, the list of daily specials is extensive and makes up for any shortfalls. Particularly noteworthy is the grilled spigola (Mediterranean sea bass) swimming in herbs and the lobster cooked out of the shell in cherry tomatoes. Both are molto buon.

Other regular menu items that are worthy of A-list palates include the bistec de Fiorentina, a 22 oz. wonder of grilled porterhouse steak and the pesce spada, or big-eyed swordfish, cooked in tomatoes and capers. Starters that shouldn't be missed include the savory lobster ravioli and the shitake mushrooms with white truffles. A prodigious wine list favoring Italian selections (no surprise) such as the stellar 1997 Pinot Grigio Collio and 1998 Super Toscani Lupicaia accompany meals with aplomb. To finish, say yes to the indulgent chocolate mousse, but don't blow your calorie count on the arid nonna torte.

Presiding over the whole affair is Signor Baldi himself, most likely barking orders or graciously greeting guests as he ventures from the kitchen to center stage. He's probably thinking the same thing you are as you scan the star-studded tables -- thank God it's Friday.

Il Ristorante di Giorgio Baldi, 114 West Channel Road, Santa Monica, CA 90402 310-573-1660

Shelter
Shelter is indeed a haven of sorts -- a restaurant and bar where the uber hip can let it all hang-out in attitudinal glory and where the DKNY-deprived need not apply. The first thing one notices approaching the club (former home of the hairdo band haunt, Coconut Teaser), is the mass of PYT's and Josh Hartnett-esque dudes massing near the entrance. Nothing really new for Sunset Blvd. What is novel is instead of the flash and splash of other clubs, Shelter looks East -- New York not Asia -- for inspiration. From the waitresses in tiny black skirts and faux Mohawks to the black-on-black ambiance that pervades, entering Shelter is like a time-and-place warp back to NYC in the Eighties. Bad-boy boîte touches, such as mountains of black wax melted on the fireplace mantle and provocative bondage-flavored art on the walls, create a cozy, batcave ambiance where Val Kilmer, Christian Slater and Jennifer Lopez have partied in the club's subterranean private room, The Chrome Bar. Hardcore rap with a little dancefloor pop pumped in for filler keeps the crowd moving on super-busy Friday nights on two dance floors, while the open-air patio, in true East Coast fashion, is a hazy, pack-a-day puffers delight. The dress code? Black, please.

Shelter, 8117 W. Sunset Blvd. Los Angeles, CA 90046 323-654-0030

Lucky Strike
Hosting everything from the wrap party for hot feature film "13" to a nude bowling tournament of Playboy models is bound to get you noticed, even in jaded Hollywood. Described as a "bowling lounge," Lucky Strike riffs on the idea of a place where you roll large balls down a polished wooden surface -- but this is definitely not your father's bowling alley. Sleek retro furniture, a state-of-the-art VJ/DJ booth, a video wall of art and film flashing above the lanes on widescreens and private lockers where the likes of Vince Vaughn hang their shoes have created a place where even those who don't know a spare from a strike can chill-out with panache. Not up for wearing funny shoes? You can always play pool, have a late-night nosh at the restaurant run by Along Came Mary, Hollywood's de facto caterer, or sip Lucky Shots (a concoction of Blue Curacao, grenadine and vodka) at the bar. Rescued by Lucky Strike's owners from the ruins of the famed Hollywood Star Lanes, the gritty bowling joint that played a starring role in the "Big Lebowski," the Lane 16 Bar now serves patrons like Gwen Stefani and Adrien "The Pianist" Brody. The venue's four private lanes and adjoining lounge have also hosted parties for notables such as Demi Moore and the Lakers. Currently, there are no plans for nude bowling league, but this is Hollywood.

Lucky Strike, 6801 Hollywood Blvd. no. 143 (The Hollywood & Highland Complex) Hollywood, CA 90028 323-467-7776

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