Angeleno Magazine > May, 2003
AT
HOME BETWEEN THE SCENES
A travel writer finds a sense of place in Franklin
Hills
by Eric Hiss, photography by John Ellis
My
work often takes me to the places we all dream about,
from cozy villes tucked into France's Mediterranean
coastline to the jungles and ruins of Central America.
However, as much as I love the road and the cultures
and people that fire my imagination, I always look
forward to returning home. Maybe it's just that Nuestra
Seņora La Reina de Los Angeles Sobre el Rio de Porciuncula
(LA's full name) is so deep in my blood. As a third
generation Angeleno, I think if you cut me, I would
bleed smog and palm trees.
But there comes that time when the road
has worn me down and I long for friends, family and
my own bed. Returning, especially from the east at
twilight as the plane makes its approach to LAX, I
never cease to feel a rush, like unexpectedly seeing
an old lover, as I look north towards the Hollywood
sign and the Griffith Park Observatory. I then allow
my gaze to play over the soft brown hills moving east,
until they rest on hilly terrain marked by a sudden
scarcity of lights and dense foliage.
That's Franklin Hills, my home for the
last 12 years. From the air, it's conspicuous by its
lack of lights, brooding Mordor-like above a carpet
of electric embers that march right to its very base.
If I look carefully (and the person sitting in the
window seat doesn't mind) I can make out Vermont Blvd.
as it traverses a huge swath of the city heading north
to its terminus, our more famous and decidedly tony
sibling, Los Feliz.
You see, part of what I love about this place is its
anonymity. Sandwiched between Los Feliz and Silver
Lake, two of the hottest divas in the time-honored
LA sport of "so, where do you live," (which we all
know translates to: "where are you on the food chain"),
reclines unpretentious Franklin Hills.
Buffered from scene-seekers by our more
visible siblings, Franklin Hills thrives with it's
own discreet cachet. No, we don't get the press our
neighbors do, and frankly, that's just how we like
it here. Publicity is bad for the status quo. And
the norm here equals quiet, serpentine streets that
climb past a profusion of trees and gardens that never
cease to amaze me. Some personal favorites I pause
to admire on my walks are the stunning succulent garden
bordered with fruit-laden citrus trees on Mayview
and the wild flowers that burst forth every spring
from an open lot on the same street, framing Hollywood
off in the distance.
The Cote d'Azur may have its seaside
bistros and Iceland its Blue Lagoon, but defying the
observation (usually by outsiders) that Los Angeles
is a featureless expanse, Franklin Hills not only
has striking landmarks but a colorful history as well.
First and foremost, the area is defined by the Shakespeare
Bridge, an artful expanse of white spires built in
1926 that was modeled after a bridge in France.
Located near where Franklin Blvd. begins before throttling
west down into the flats of Hollywood, the bridge
is our grande dame.
As befits any leading lady, it has played
starring roles in films like "Dead Again" and even
has a fan club of area residents who dress her up
in lights every Christmas and took the trouble to
create a lovely meridian blooming with flowers. No
forgotten Norma Desmond, she.
But alas, though another Norma, Norma
Talmadge to be exact, might be a forgotten film star
from Hollywood's early days, she remains forever a
resident of the neighborhood as the namesake of one
of our major thoroughfares, Talmadge Avenue. The western
border of Franklin Hills, her enduring testament is
also the address of the Prospect Studios, another
major landmark of our area. With a filmdom pedigree
second-to-none, the Prospect Studios were opened in
1915 as the Vitagraph lot when Hollywood was still
a semi-rural outpost and wide-eyed starlets and extras
dressed as cowboys and gladiators rode the Red Car
to work here from all over the city.
Back to print
publications